Tradition woven into wool
Tucked away in the Serra da Estrela mountain range, the Burel Factory in Manteigas, Portugal, is a fascinating blend of tradition and creativity. Once an old wool mill, it was brought back to life in 2010 by João Tomás and Isabel Costa, a couple determined to revive the region’s textile heritage. They restored the original looms, preserved traditional techniques, and gave the industry a fresh, modern twist.
Shuttle and loom (Burel Factory, 2023)
Burel is a tough, tightly woven wool fabric that was originally made to keep mountain shepherds dry and warm in all kinds of weather, not dissimilar from the traditional Scottish duffed wool fabric, which is a felted and beaten wool used to make Bonnets and Tam o' Shanters, commonly worn by shepherds and outdoor workers. Burel’s naturally water-resistant, hard-wearing, and built to last qualities have made it a staple in Portuguese heritage. These days, the factory is breathing new life into the material, turning it into stylish clothing, home decor, and even architectural pieces, all while sticking to sustainable and ethical production methods.
When I visited the factory back in the summer of 2023, it felt like stepping back in time, with the factory’s huge old looms still clanking away and shelves stacked high with brightly coloured wool. There’s a real charm to seeing the mix of traditional craftsmanship and modern design in action. It’s a photographer’s dream too — soft natural light streaming through old windows, bold textures of raw wool, and the contrast between sturdy machinery and delicate threads. Every corner has a story waiting to be captured.
Photographing the factory on a scorching Saturday morning was a unique experience — without the usual hum of looms and the steady rhythm of work, the space felt almost frozen in time. Sunlight streamed through the tall factory windows, casting shadows on the worn stone floors and illuminating the vibrant spools of wool stacked along the walls. The silence made every detail more striking — the intricate mechanisms of century-old machines, the textures of raw wool waiting to be transformed, and the soft dust particles dancing in the air. Without the movement of workers, the factory became a still-life of industry and tradition, offering a rare chance to capture its essence in a moment of quiet pause.
Yarn bobbins ready to be attached to a loom shuttle (Burel Factory, 2023).
The Burel Factory is, however, not just about nostalgia — it’s about keeping a craft alive in a way that makes sense today. By focusing on sustainability, using locally sourced wool, and producing everything with care, their refreshed activity is living proof that slow fashion and heritage industries can still thrive.
If you’re ever exploring the Serra da Estrela region, this place is well worth a visit. Whether you’re into textiles, photography, or just love discovering hidden gems, the Burel factory is a little slice of Portuguese history that’s still going strong.
